It’s Tuesday! It’s time to share your excerpts and teasers from books we are currently reading, have read or are planning to read. So, feel free to join us by sharing the first paragraph or (a few) of a book you are reading or thinking about reading soon.
Past Lives, Future Lives
by Dr. Bruce Goldberg
Ballentine Books 1982
“On a cold and overcast Wednesday afternoon in March of 1980, Harry Martin began his journey into the past. From the moment he arrived at my office, Harry made it clear that he was very skeptical about hypnosis and even more skeptical about past-life regressions. Yet i could tell that this twenty-eight year old TV talk show co-host was a highly intelligent man with great powers of concentration- which made him, potentially at least, an excellent candidate for hypnosis. (Being skeptical about regressions has very little to o with one’s ability to be regressed. The suggestibility of the patient and the doctor-patient rapport determines success or failure in regression therapy.)”
Your past problems can affect your future, so be careful about what you wish for in this life. Follow along with a prominent Baltimore hypnotherapist on dramatic voyages of self discovery through the past centuries and the ones to come.
An interesting scientific approach to the subject. A bit preachy at times, and sometimes very unsettling. If you want to learn more about this subject, this is a good place to start. If you want something a bit more light hearted I suggest you watch the movie On a Clear Day You Can See Forever. In this 1970 American musical comedy-drama fantasy film starring Barbra Streisand, Daisy Gamble decides she’ll give hypnosis a try to help her stop smoking, at the request of her fiancé. While hypnotized, she discloses to her psychiatrist (Yves Montand) that she’s the reincarnation of a 19th-century seductress named Lady Melinda Winifred Waine Tentrees.
Does this sound interesting to read? Let me know. What are you interested in?
It is an unspoken fact that in order for people to remember your business, you not only need good product and excellent customer service, you need a brand. In order to promote that brand you need merchandise. So what type of merchandise do you need?
That depends on your industry, but for bookstores it is fairly simple and short list.
Bookmarks. These are the standard item for a book business. Doubling as a business card, with the store information on either one side or incorporated in the design, these little items can be as cheaply made (off a printer & laminated) or as detailed as you like (carved out of wood). Some people even collect bookmarks. But most people will only pay for the fancier ones, so if you are intending to give them away don’t blow the budget on them.
Bags. There are many types, but since every customer needs something to hold all of the purchases, bags are a no brainer. The two most common types are Plastic and Canvas.
Plastic: Okay no one really wants to use these any more. In fact a growing trend is to ban the use of them. But if you do want to get them, you can have your store name printed on them in bulk. Now there are some more environmental friendly plastic bags out there, but they tend to be very expensive.
Canvas: These can be made with different cloths, but tend to be durable and are reusable. Multiple designs can be made on them, all tailored to showcase a different aspect of your brand. Best of all, they are washable.
Style/Size: The style of bag is important as well. A square bottom bag is better to hold items securely, but the handles are the most important. Books are heavy, and if the handles break the books are damaged. It is good to offer a selection of sizes as well. Smaller bags (holding a few paperbacks) can be a substitute for gift- wrapping if the design is good. Larger bags (like paper delivery bags) are great to re-purpose as laundry bags, but fill them with books and you’ll need to start selling pain medicine.
Writing Materials. What goes with reading better than writing materials? Decorative notebooks are a brilliant thing to do, but the market is getting quite cluttered with them. So unless you have a hook that will make you stand out ( hand-carved wooden notebooks, glitter covered pages and so on) , don’t over do it. Pens and pencils are still a good idea and there are many companies out there that can make this an affordable option.
Household items. This is mainly coffee mugs, and tea cups. Which can be connected to books and reading quite easily. But some stores make decorative hot plates, coasters and I have even seen utensils. Once again, the object is to get people to advertise for you, so unless the customer is a professional chef, slapping your store information on a set of kitchen knives is not going to do much for you. And that would also be expensive to make.
Apparel. T-shirts, hoodies, scarves, hats and umbrellas are the items I see most often. All of them imprinted with the store’s information and a logo. Unless it rains a lot near your store, skip the umbrellas. They are expressive to make and sell, and very few people look at the top of one to see the logo. Like business cards and book marks clothing is the place to go crazy (with in reason). Good quality and a good or unusual design will make them a good add on item, which will then be a constant reminder of your store and brand for months to come.
Store Specific. Some stores already have a brand item from the start. There is a bookshop that sells teddy bears with the books as a reading device for beginner readers. So they started to put small t-shirts on the bears with the store name on them. Another store had a cat mascot, and started selling plushies. Find what is special about your store and see if it is easily transferable . If not don’t sweat it.
So those are the ones that are industry specific. Brand awareness and the merchandise it creates can be helpful and harmful to the business depending on how much time and income is spent on it. Remember this is an add on. If it becomes your business, then that is a whole other situation.
Let’s set the scene. You get a message stating that you have inherited a collection from a distant relative and it is sent to you in a box. Or you buy an old house and find a box in the attic. When you open the box a slightly musty, earthy smell hits your senses. Inside are a stack of heavy books that seem like relics from another age. No dust covers, but the spines and boards are covered in bumps and faded sepia colors. When you pick one up you can see the page edges are dulled with golden flecks
It looks something like this:
and if you peer closely you notice what looks like drawings in the dusty gold. Something like this: or perhaps a drawing.
Wait wait. you are thinking. Everyone knows about decorative boards on old books and even decorative end pages.But drawings on the page ends?
Well yes. This has been a trend in books since it started back in the 10th century. You can get it done today, if you want. It is called fore-edge paining. This is a very intricate skill, and most of the time until the pages are splayed, or opened, as you are reading, the image will just look like little dots of color on the edges. Let’s face it. When owning a book or ten meant you were rich and having a library meant you were Robber Baron rich, a good book would cost more than a year’s salary for your servant. You would want to be able to show your wealth without being crass about it. Thus the exotic leather coverings, the gilted decorative covers, the creamiest of vellum pages, the marbled end pages, the copper pressed illuminated illustrations and the fore-edge paintings. The more you had on it, the richer you were. But of course it all had to be tastefully done.
(Sometimes less is more. )
So where were we? Oh yes. The open box.
When taking the books out, you carefully open one to see what the book is called.
You notice the patterned end pages that remind you of a 1960’s pattern-if it was done in gray, red, or dark blue greens. You notice a nice illustration on the page before the title page (complete with a tissue guard) and the face that the words seem up raised under your fingers. You check the date and it is older than any of your living relatives. Then you notice the handwritten name scripted in ink across the title page.
This might be a signed book!
So now what?
First you must see if you can read it.
Does it match the author name or the subject of the book (if it is a biography)? Or is it a familiar name? Is there a date?
All of these are important.
So if signature looks like the author name and is dated, then this is a good thing. This is a signed book.
If the name is familiar, but not the author’s name, then this is a owner signature or a dedication signature. This could also be a good thing. Why? You ask? Well some people like to collect the collections of other people or places.
People collect themes. Books from Rockerfeller’s personal library, books from Ash Tree Publishers, books signed by the author,books by a particular author and books signed by a particular author.
Wait what? That last part didn’t sound correct.
Ah but it is. Some authors signed books that they had nothing to do with. In fact Asimov would sign anything. I’ve seen science textbooks (and yes, he did write some of them) and history text books that he signed for his young fans who, at the time, didn’t have anything else to have him sign.
Some authors signed books for other authors. Like for example if you find a copy of Edgar Rice Burroughs A Princess of Mars signed and dedicated to his interesting friend H.P. and H.P. has his signature on a bookplate as well as the date. That Would BE EPIC!
Why? well first off I’m into sure these two men would have known each other and then having TWO authors signing the same book that is NOT a collaboration of some sort is very rare. Very very rare.
I mean it would be almost like having an signed version of Stonewall Jackson’s Autobiography.
Or a pink, singing unicorn.
For if you do have a copy of Stonewall Jackson’s signed autobiography it is either not a real signature per se, or you have the unbound manuscript with the carved copper signature stamp. And if you have that you will become very popular.
If you don’t know Jackson was sick when he was writing it and signed his name to be made into a copper plate stamp to be pressed into the copies of his book. He died before the first copy was printed.
The world of publishing is very intricate and complex. If you want to delve deeper into collecting there are myriad of rabbit holes to go down. There are so many ways to forge a book, and most of the general readers would have no clue as to when they are being taken for a ride. The Vinland Map is a great example of this. Check out the link below for more details. https://www.connecticutmag.com/history/the-vinland-map-was-a-historic-find-that-turned-out-to-be-a-fraud/article_ac55dd82-5879-11e8-b525-d7f2296ed83d.html
Another great example would be what kept happening in China.
What happened there?
Honestly, it would take another blog post to cover the topic, but let’s just say that when the Dynasties changed hands, most of the time all of the books were burned and the names of places were changed. But more on that another time.
So how do you know if you have a real, authentic signed book? Well you have to get it appraised.
First off, go to a computer and look up when the book was published. If the book came out after the author died, it might be a fake. If the signature is inserted on a small slip into the book (attached to the binding) it might be a publisher’s addition.
If the dates line up, then it might be real. Next who wrote it? How many copies are out there? Is it still in print?
These are important t know. For example I once found a “college romance” book that was a signed copy by a member of the Peerage, who became Prime Minister before WWI. Oddly enough it is still in print.
After doing your research, take pictures of the item. Be sure to have one of the Closed book (and book art), the title page, the publishers page , where the signature is, what the color of the ink used is and any other unusual thing you think might be important.
This video gives some good examples of what people are looking for: https://youtu.be/3Ck4Lubopbg
Then put the books in a safe place where they cannot be easily damaged by – well- everything and anything. Depending on what you feel you have found, you might want to rent a safe deposit box at a bank.
Keep your research handy, then look up a specialist. These are called Antiquities Appraisers, but this is a broad field of specialists, so you need to request one that deals with signatures and rare book appraisals. Next do what they tell you to do.
Sometimes they will charge a fee, other times they will do it for free. The value of a signed book will change slightly by the appraiser depending on their market.
Just remember that an appraiser and a rare book dealer might have a similar skill set, but they have different jobs. The appraiser can tell you if it is a valid signature and what the going rate for it is. The rare book dealer will tell you if it is valid and then what they will pay you for it. Remember that buyers need to be paid as well, so the price you get might be a third of what it is sold for. Sometimes you can negotiate , but they are not trying to cheat you.
And that’s it really.
If you want to keep the book, you can either get an archival box, or just keep it on a shelf. But if you do keep it ad it is apprised with the correct signature, then keep the appraisal information in a file on the shelf. This way, you, or your descendants, don’t have to go and have it done again.
People love to read and when the books have been read so much they start to fall apart, people replace them. This is not something that I, as a secondhand dealer, object to. In fact this is very good for the environment as books have been mass produced for over 50 years now, so some out of print copies are almost “Like New.” In fact this is how some places, like Ikea, can fill their new shelf displays with identical copies of a few titles across all of the stores in a country to showcase how their shelving works. The same thing is done with fully furnished model homes. Why? Well everyone knows what a book looks like and it helps the minds-eye to see how your stuff could fit as a comparison. But I digress.
Buying used books can help the environment by not becoming waste and help the economy by making it easier, or more affordable,- for the most part -to buy items. If you want something to read, and only have $20 you can get either one new book, or, depending on your stores, up to 18 books that you might not have even heard about. Sounds good right? New to you books and a chance to replace a falling apart best read.
But what do you do with that broken, falling apart copy of a book?
If you are like most people, you toss it into the bin. Hopefully the recycle bin. Most of a book is recyclable. The hardcovers, due to that plastic sheen seen on kids books, is not. Some of the Dust Jackets (DJs, also known as Dust Covers or DCs) are not. Some are plastic based, some have waxed coatings and others are just sealed with archival tape. Good luck with that, archival tape, by nature, can survive a heck of a lot.
Other people burn books, which if they are too damaged, BUT NOT MOLDY, is a good way to compost them. The ash from the pages can be very helpful to maintain the temperature in compost piles. Do NOT burn moldy books. Just don’t. Do I really have to explain why? Let’s just say those pretty colors that come off of them are not good for your health. Moldy books are also not able to be recycled. So, those you can just toss.
Another group of people, we will call them Crafty Folk, like to upcycle them. Upcycling, for those who don’t know, is the art of taking something and re-purposing it for another use. Crafty Folk have used well read, trashed books to make sculptures, planters, decoupage items, safes, art displays and homemade stationary.
But no matter what you do and have done with older, cannot be repaired books, you must do this one thing in the future.
Find out who did the cover art.
Find out who did the cover art.
Seriously. WHO ILLUSTRATED YOUR BOOK?
You might have noticed that every time a book gets reprinted the art work changes. Or that when it is printed for a different audience or in another language nothing matches? There may be some similarities,but most of the time it isn’t subtle. The photo below shows a good example of this:
In the 1970s, 80s & 90s a lot of fantasy & science fiction books had artwork by Boris Vallejo. His distinct style is instantly recognizable. For many years his fantasy art could only be found on the glossy covers of the mass market books.
What most people don’t realize is that some artists can start out drawing Dust Jackets and become famous later on. Other artists were already famous and offered their services to publishers or writers of their favorite books. Ingahild Grathmer, for example, did the illustrations for an 1977 edition of Lord of the Rings. Her style is quite distinct, but you might be more familiar with her other job, namely being the current Queen of Denmark. Virgil Finlay,Paul Lehr,Frank Kelly Freas, Bob Pepper and H. R. Giger (yes that one) are just a few of the ones out there.
But here is a little secret.
Some of them have signed the books along with the author.
Thus there might be some value to that broken down book after all.
So before you toss that book, or do what ever else you were thinking about doing with it, check the book for the illustrator’s name and do some research. You might have a rare copy. Or you might just see some nice art work.
A win-win either way.
And since that DJ and cover cannot be recycled, why not save them, along with what ever interior artwork there is? You can offer it online to some Crafty Folk or some art teachers to see if they can use them for something.
But wait! What if I find the signature in the book?
First step is to put the whole book in a box or other safe place. You will need to do some research, and it will take some time.
And that process will be explained in the next posting.
There are many people whose only passion is that they love to read, but while there are many jobs for proof readers and book reviewers, they don’t pay well. So what can you do?
Well you can become a bookseller, a literary scout or even a bibliotherapist.
A what now?
A bibliotherapist is a therapist who specializes in bibliotherapy. Bibliotherapy is a creative arts therapies modality that involves storytelling or the reading of specific texts with the purpose of healing. It uses an individual’s relationship to the content of books and poetry and other written words as therapy. Bibliotherapy is often combined with writing therapy. So while you still need to become a therapist, you can now assign your clients books to read to help with their issues. The link below has a better explanation of how this works and the second one tells you how you can become one.
Most of us have moved a few times in our lives. Most of us have had some books in our lives. But why is it so difficult for people to move with books?
Personally I think there are two aspects to this issue. : First the number of books vs the number of boxes. Second knowing how to pack them.
No one who collects books can comprehend how many books there really are in the collection. You might know the number of books, but that seems to become an abstract point. For example the first time I moved as a child, my father asked me how many boxes I needed for my belongings. I said 4 boxes. My valuables were in a suitcase, my toys were in a toy-box and my clothes were rolled & tightly sealed into my dresser. All that was left was my book collection. Now I knew that I had an encyclopedia set, a 2 volume dictionary set from 1899 and my Star Trek book collection. I had recently complied a list of the volumes I had (as of 2019 over 850 books were in this series) and I knew that I had 400 of them. So 4 book boxes would work right?
Let it be known that this did not work.
Places that sell moving boxes tend to sell what they call book boxes. This box is intended to hold 65 pounds, and is 16-3/8″ x 12-5/8″ x 12-5/8″ (W x L x H). These boxes are great until you fill them up. Then you can find out just how heavy your collection really is. First you need to put paper or cloth down to protect the books. Then, only 24 regular sized hardbacks will fit per box and will be about 38 lbs. An encyclopedia set can almost fit in one box. That is quite a bit heavier than 38 lbs. About 50 paperbacks can fit inside the box. I was quickly out of boxes.
Now since I was a child I did not know how to pack boxes of books, and since moving as an adult I’ve found that most moving companies don’t know how to pack book boxes either.
For most people using the boxes that printer paper comes in is a good box for books. To be honest it isn’t a bad idea for a short move or if you have odd sized books. But those cartons are not stable enough to put more than two or three cartons on top of it. If you’ve ever bought a carton of printer paper you will notice that the stacks of paper are right up to the edge and there is not much wiggle room. Books should not be packed that way. Books need some gaps to prevent getting damaged. Stacking other boxes on top of the books -even if they are other book boxes- will cause the lids to break. But these are great for short trips and quick unpacking.
In college I used plastic milk crates to move from dorm to dorm. These stack nicely and you can pack them in a way that they are their own shelf. But the nature of the design of the crates tends to cause “shelf wear” on the books, so then you need in to bit levels in them and that can take up a bit of room. But these are easy to carry, so there is that in its favor. But it is getting more difficult to find milk crates, so that might be an issue.
I have used cloth bags, the ones with the square bottoms, but those are not the most stable and can damage the books if moved around too much. This is a better thing to use in the packing box. More on that later.
For shows I used to use cardboard boxes like printer boxes as they were easy to replace if damaged. One three hour rainstorm made me change to plastic totes. Plastic totes are great- if you can get the correct size and the number you need. The same size and brand will stack perfectly together. Unfortunately different brands do not stack easily together and will cause the breaking or warping of the lids and sides. Also good plastic totes are between $14 to $30 each. When dealing with large collections you will need to invest in a good way to transport them.
The last time I moved my store. 5,000 titles. I packed the boxes and movers placed them in the truck. Please remember to check the movers are putting the books against the walls of the vehicle. Book boxes can be an extra wall of protection for the truck, but if they are used to layer the bottom of the truck there will be massive amounts of broken boxes.
So now you have the number of boxes…what then? You need packing supplies. Books need cushioning. This can be plain paper (as newspaper can create ink smudges) bubble wrap, packing peanuts or cloth. I have found that clean wash cloths, tea towels, hand towels, socks and most infant clothing can work as packing supplies quite well. You will need to move those items anyway, so why pay for extra supplies and use more boxes for them? Use the towels on the bottom and top, roll the other items to fit snugly in the black areas. Just remember to label the box so you know what you used. Nothing like having to open 40 boxes to find your infant’s onesie.
There is a video down below that will demonstrate how to pack them properly in the boxes to avoid damage to the books and to the movers.
Now I like to also use the cloth bags in the box. So I layer the box with padding and place the open, empty bag in the box. Ipack the books inside the bag like it was in a box. Then I foldthe handles overthe top and make sure there is enough padding around it before sealing it up. This is a good way to keep smaller collections together to easily shelve it later.
Moving is always stressful and the more ways you can make it easier to do so is good for all involved.
Hello again and welcome to another blog posting. Last time we wrote about how to store (display) your collection and today we will be discussing how to take care of your collection correctly.
So oddly enough people tend to forget that books are made of paper. By nature paper is temperamental. Time and temperature can cause many issues. If you have a larger collection, sometimes it becomes quite difficult to care for it properly. Since books went from ultra expensive & rare to inexpensive & cheaply made around 120 years ago people have seemed to forgotten just how delicate (for the lack of a better word) books are. Over the years I have seen this when evaluating and purchasing collections. There are two distinct patterns that occur: lack of knowledge and lack of care. The rest of this blog post will address these two issues and then give suggestions on how to properly treat a book collection of any size. As always feel free to contact us with any other suggestions or comments.
Lack of Care
Lack of care can be also called lack of time. Unless you are dealing with your collection daily, either using them as reference materials or even just rereading them weekly, time management becomes a thing.It might not seem like a big deal, but cleaning your books collection should be a weekly thing. Fairly simple to do, if you have a particular day that you vacuum or dust, just remove the books from the case -by the middle of the spine and not the ends as that will start to fray the ends- wipe each with a dry soft cloth, then wipe down the shelf. Dust can do damage to books over time as it will start mold growth. Dust mites attract other bugs which can also start infesting in your book. Did your pets get fleas? Child get lice? Have to spray for bugs? These are all good times to clean the book collection. Small bugs love to hide in yummy paper.
Wiping down the books weekly or bi-monthly can also let you see if there are any other issues occurring. For example fading, yellowing, sagging spines and cracking of leathers. All of which are problems that can be easily solved in the beginning.
Lack of Knowledge
Books are made of paper.
This seems like an obvious thing to state, but do you know what exactly this means? When paper is made wood pulp and fabric are mixed with water into a pulp and then formed into flat sheets. This video can explain how to do it better. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rn9UsSafWHI From the time that the page is created, paper is drying out. When it is completely dried it is cracking and tearing, sometimes crumbling at the touch. All of those cartoons when the book turns to dust and blows away in the breeze can happen if certain conditions are not met.
Mind you these days the production of paper has somewhat changed, so decay and turning to dust is not easily accomplished.
Step 1: Placement: Keep your books in a stable, moderate environment. Room temperature, around 70 degrees, and a moderate relative humidity, around 50%, is best.. Too much heat or moisture can speed up deterioration or encourage mold growth. Even though it is tempting to make the basement or the attic into a personal library or just use it for long term storage, don’t. They tend to not have good circulation (ha library joke!) and will either be too hot or too damp. If you absolutely need to store them long term in those locations use proper book storage containers, like those sold by Talas and other library archival companies.
So now where you do put your collection? Not in your sunniest room, no matter how much you enjoy reading there. There was a reason that personal libraries in older homes are designed with tall narrow windows, in the middle of the house and with dark heavy wood and leather. Direct sunlight will fade your books. This is seen a lot where the dust jacket spine has changed from an orange to a weird mustard color after a decade of early morning sunlight. This is a reason why bookstore window displays need to be changed monthly.Fading, tanning, sunning and darkening are the terms used to describe the affect ultraviolet and direct sunlight will have on the paper. Leather bindings will dry out and crack instead of fading, but fading can occur as the moisture is drawn from the skin. Pleather, or synthetic leather, will also fade, but instead of cracking it will get a sticky sensation as it starts to melt in the heat. So a nice room in the middle of the house like the family room or living room seems more ideal.
But don’t put your bookcases along the exterior walls. Modern buildings are fairly thin walled. As someone who has lived in town homes, the warmest walls was the ones connected to the other homes. Exterior walls can experience temperature and humidity changes. Also try not to put the cases under a vent or along a wall where the plumbing shut off valves are or any lace that might have issues if a pipe breaks. (so not next to the kitchen or the bathrooms). That makes the ideal location the hallway.
Step 2: Treatment: You need to keep moisture down near your books. There are many ways to do this, but the best way I have found is to get boxes of baking soda and keep them open behind the books. Just like in the fridge, they absorb smells and excess moisture. Unlike other items like kitty litter and cedar chips, baking soda does not smell. And when it starts to clump, then you can replace it. Cedar chips and moth balls will keep away most bugs, but the scents can be over whelming if you have a lot of shelving. Closing the nearest air vent to the shelves is a good thing to do as well.
If you have noticed some major damage to the books remove them from the shelves. What is “Major” damage? Mold, cracking leather and darkening pages.
If there is mold, mildew or a sweetly sour scent remove the book from the others. Take the two books next to it off as well. Place the book in a ziploc bag with baking soda in it. Check the other books. Place them in individual ziploc as well. Wipe down the whole shelf with a bleach and water mix and let it air dry. Place the uncontaminated books on the shelf. Search for a place that repairs books. Depending on the extent of the damage, it might be best to just get a new copy.
If the leather is cracking and flaking CALL A PROFESSIONAL. There are certain glues that will cause worse damage if used.
If the pages are darkening and tearing DO NOT USE COMMON TAPE. The glue will cause yellowing and will make the problem worse. If the damage is on the dust cover/ dust jacket remove it from the book. Get some mylar covers and place them inside. Mylar covers are the book equivalent to plastic wraps and boards used for the storing of comic books. http://www.shopbrodart.com is a good place to find bookcovers for your collection. The long link below shows how to fit it properly.
When you, as a reader, move from having a few dozen books on a topic, to being a collector with a few dozen books on a dozen topics, there comes a problem about where to put them. The last thing one wants is to see their collection warp and become damaged over time. There are lots of considerations to keep track of when displaying your collection, but perhaps the most basic question you should first ask yourself is whether to store your books vertically in the upright position or horizontally on their sides.
Why is that a question to ask? Because most shelving units are not designed to hold books of different sizes and weights. So unless you want to have two cases for each subject (paperbacks and hardcovers) or three (paperbacks, hardcovers and Quality Paperbacks) most of us start to stack the paperbacks horizontally. This saves space, at first, and allows you to groups subjects together, but this can place undue pressure on the spines, causing them to sag and crack over time.
So what to do?
Over the years I have tried many shelving units, from the simple homemade cinder blocks and planks of wood, to solid oak bookcases. All have some issues, so as an “expert” on this here are my suggestions.
When looking for a bookcase
1: MEASURE WHERE YOU WILL BE PUTTING THEM. There is nothing like finding you have misjudged the wall space and now are encroaching on a door way or a stairwell.
2: Look at where your outlets are. If the only plug outlet in the room will be behind the bookcases find an extension cord so that you can have some lights in the room.
3: MEASURE WHERE YOU ARE PUTTING THEM. Yes I said this before. But remember the ceiling. There is nothing like spending good money on a nice 8 foot bookcase to find out that your ceiling is 7 1/2 feet tall.
3a: Also how tall are you? Can you reach the top of an 6 foot bookcase? Do you need to buy a chair or stool to do so? Remember you will have to dust at some point….
4: How many books do you have and how many are you planning to get? Trick question. The only acceptable answer is: this will be my personal library.
When at the store
Congratulations, you have now made it to the store to get your first of many bookshelves. Where is the best place to go? Your local bookstore is the best place to see which types of shelves you can get. So go in and see what they have……
And now that you are leaving with a small selection of new books did you notice the shelves at all?
Most new bookstores use solid wood shelving with permanent shelving. Each shelf is 13 inches (give or take 1 inch) in height and about 10 inches in depth. This allows for all types of books to be placed spine showing. Most hardcovers are approximately 7 inches in width, with QPs being slightly smaller, but oblong books or art books are a bit longer, so extra space is needed. If your collection does not have any oblong books, then this will allow you to push them evenly back against the backing.
Something you might not have noticed is that these shelves tend to have backs. Sounds silly, but it doesn’t matter if a store is calling it a book case, if there is not a back it is a display shelving unit or a knick -knack case. Your books will fall off, or get damaged if they are pushed against the wall. And oddly enough these will not hold your books. Point in case, two decades ago I bought six cases from Ikea. Now I love Ikea. Their products are light colored and designed to go together. But I secured the cases against the wall and placed my collection on them, only to notice that after a few months they were leaning away from the wall and sagging dangerously. I called my local store to see what could be done and they were perplexed. So I took some photos and went to the store. The response was that this was happening because I had too many books on the cases and the metal “x” supports on the backs weren’t designed to hold such weight. I ended up getting a large piece of particleboard and nailing the cases to this. This was now an almost unmovable 8 foot by 12 foot bookcase.
I love Ikeas’ way of having adjustable shelving, which works well in smaller collections, but for my store, and for anyone who wants to have shelving where the pins don’t break, fall out or just vanish, I’d suggest looking for cases that use a more built in method. Now I’m not sure what it is called, but the shelves are designed to fit into grooves on the sides of the case. This allows for an even distribution of weight and, if the shelf breaks, makes it easier to replace. The one problem is that those shelves are permanent and thus you have to make sure it will fit the height of your books.
Now if you decide to go with the pegs https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/all-about-shelf-support can help you decide which one is better for you.
Stay away from press board. I’m sorry this stuff does not last for very long. Okay, yes it does last a for a while, but when it breaks it is a pain to fix, or replace. Any water damage and it will start to swell. And by water damage I mean having your AC up too high.
Now glass and metal shelving is great for the books themselves, but can be problematic depending on your collection and your life. Kids and pets can bump into things and if these fall or break, there may be some issues. These shelves are good due to the non- porous nature of the materials. Wood absorbs water over time no matter how you treat it and that can get into the books. One can delay this by using metal or glass shelving or by keeping the temperature steady in the room. Airing out your collection every so often helps as well. I have found that using contact paper (kitchen shelf lining paper) on wood shelves helps as well- but that stuff needs to be evenly placed and is difficult to remove. So I would recommend spending the cash on a good solid wood case that can stand on its own (without needing to be against a wall).
But wait….what about the storing of the books?
Other Items you Need to have
As a child I never understood why I should ever have them, as any room on the bookshelf was filled with more books. But a decent bookend will help keep the books steady and prevent them from expanding (remember water is in the air)If you place the bookend with a hardcover they will help prevent the paperbacks from losing shape.
Bookends can be made of anything as long as they are the same on each end of the shelf (if using two) as the pressure must be the same. You can get them at any bookstore, or even make them yourself. I’ve known people who have used painted Styrofoam blocks and some who have painted bricks. Others have used jars of marbles. It honestly doesn’t matter.
This is what I use for my paperback books. Since most of my collections include all formats of books, I had some of my shelves measured and wooden risers put in These are shorter than the shelves, and are recessed in. This allows me to put in two rows of paperbacks so that I can see which ones are there. This works better on shelving that has more depth (like for oblong books). Personally I like them to be shorter than the length of the shelf so that I can adjust them if needed, or if I need to put in a bookend.
When setting up your shelves, just remember that you do need to give them some space. You cannot put them too tightly together or you will either remove all of them when taking one out or never get it off the shelf.
So what are your suggestions for storing your collection? Any particular stores, brands or types of shelves that you’d recommend? Send us a reply and let us know.
If you are not familiar with this writer, Ibn Battuta was a Muslim Berber Moroccan scholar, and explorer who widely traveled the medieval world. Over a period of thirty years, Ibn Battuta visited most of the Islamic world and many non-Muslim lands, including Central Asia, Southeast Asia, India and China. Until recent decades, most of his writings were not available in English. This gives an interesting view of the cultures for Western readers. Due to a printing error the purple ink is quite blurry on the covers.